Trip to Memory Lane

When we were newlyweds, Scott and I moved from a bustling suburban environment to a very (very) small South Georgia town.

Bored at home and seeking coffeeshops and crowds, we often found ourselves driving to Savannah, GA to traipse about the city for an entire Saturday.

We didn’t know anyone there except each other. We didn’t have any reason to be there, other than to wander about happily in each other’s company.

In 2025, we will hit our 15 year anniversary and maybe it’s making us a bit nostalgic, because for the first time in 12 years, we decided to see what Savannah was up to…

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Burgess Falls (a how-to)

Burgess Falls State Park features Burgess Falls, a waterfall located on Falling Water River in Sparta, TN.

There is no access to the base of Burgess Falls from the State Park parking area, but you can hike (0.75mi) to an overlook which looks down on Burgess. You’ll pass smaller falls along the way. To access the bottom of the falls, you have to take a kayak.

If you’re coming from Atlanta, it is a 3.5 hour drive to Sparta, TN.

Here’s the important part though: there is a TIME CHANGE from Atlanta. Sparta, TN is on Central Daylight Time (and Atlanta is on EST), so you’ll gain an hour. You might find this disconcerting if you fall asleep for over an hour in the front passenger seat and then wake up to find that according to the iPhone clock it’s somehow only been 5 minutes since you fell asleep AND you’re less than an hour to your destination.

Once you’ve kayaked to the base of the falls, you can beach your kayak and walk around, but watch out for poison ivy! (See the poison ivy surrounding the rock in the photo above.)

We rented kayaks from Cumberland Kayak outfitters and their rental includes a guide to get you to the falls. The river is not ‘rushing’ and there is not a current to pull you to your destination, so expect to spend an hour actively paddling in each direction from the put-in location. I would also caution against swimming, since the water seems fairly brown and muddy and we spotted no less than 9 snakes on our trip including a cottonmouth.

Here is my itinerary for someone from Atlanta who wants to enjoy Burgess Falls:

  • Pack a dry bag, your camera of choice (my Holga images are here!), and a sunscreen shirt (I wore this one from Amazon)
  • Bring along an ice chest with bottled waters and your favorite sandwich
  • Wake up early Saturday and drive 3.5 hours to Sparta, TN, do NOT forget to account for the time change from EST to CST
  • Stop in Sparta at The Coffee Collective for an iced coffee (they open at 8am)
  • Meet up with Cumberland Kayak in time for their 9:30am launch; there is not a lot of shade while you are paddling, so I specifically recommend going on the early trip before the sun gets high in the sky
  • Enjoy Burgess Falls! It takes approximately one hour to paddle to the base of the Falls, an hour to enjoy the view, and then an hour to paddle back
  • After returning to your vehicle, drive to the State Park Day use area at 4044 Burgess Falls Dr, Sparta, TN 38583 where you can enjoy your sandwich, find a real bathroom, and then hike 0.75mi to the Falls overlook- you’ll even get to see a couple of bonus waterfalls along the way
  • From there, drive back 1.5 hours to Chattanooga, TN and spend the night (this saves you driving 3.5 hours in both directions all in one day, you’ll drive the rest of the way home on Sunday)
  • We stayed at Wauhatchie Woodlands in a tiny cabin. Super adorable, clean, and comfy. Five stars!
  • After showers, we went to dinner, and then drinks at Elsie’s Daughters
  • The next morning, find coffee at the Frothy Monkey and tool around Chattanooga until you’re ready to head for home (have you been to their aquarium?)

Have a wonderful weekend!

Key West Recs

Photo: one of Hemingway’s cats, June 2023. His name is Alfred Hitchcock. Now let’s cut to the chase and get you those links.

My recommendations for Key West, FL

  • https://blueheavenkw.com — go for brunch and jazz, this used to be a boxing ring where Hemingway refereed matches- eat the best key lime pie of your life! If you happen to go when they are closed (in September, annually) go to Salute! on the Beach for the exact same pie.
  • http://www.louiesbackyard.com — this is your fancy dinner date destination, for a truly exceptional experience, go around sunset and ask if you can sit upstairs on the balcony.
  • https://www.bagatellekeywest.com go for brunch or lunch or dinner, their Eggs Benedict was amaaaazing and their tuna with cold noodles was one of the best tuna dishes I’ve had in years.
  • https://moondogcafe.com for brunch or lunch or coffee — get a cream cheese & guava danish and an iced cafe con leche. Their “feel good bowl” will cure any vacation-related ails you may have.
  • https://firstflightkw.com for a beer tasting flight (or a banana daiquiri) and some brisket mac n cheese. I haven’t tried their fried Pb&j served with ice cream yet, but it’s on my list.
  • Cuban Coffee Queen — multiple locations, we like the downtown one best, but the waterfront has a very instagrammable “key west” sign.
  • https://rodriguezcigarskeywest.com — they have an educational tour which includes a lesson in cigar rolling, super worth the time.
  • https://www.oceankey.com/key-west-fl-spaterre/ — get a massage or facial and you get a free pool pass- and their pool bar is excellent!
  • https://www.hemingwayhome.com to visit Hemingway’s house and polydactyl cats.
  • https://keywestbutterfly.com — surprisingly magical.
  • https://www.keywestpottery.com — fun and unique pottery.
  • Fort Zachary Taylor has the best beach. Spend a morning or afternoon, there are sandwiches and drinks available on site.
  • If you do find yourself on Duval Street— pop into Wicked Lick for ice cream (their peanut butter ice cream with mixed berry compote is my fave), enjoy Guild Hall Gallery, and step inside St. Paul’s Church.
  • Go for a kayak tour in the mangroves- sunset is especially magical out on the water.
  • Rent a scooter! Or a bike! Or a golf cart! Google for this- or ask your hotel to arrange a drop off.
Hope you have a great time in the Conch Republic!

The Annual Kayak Day, 2022

The annual family paddle fell on a Sunday in July this year- the one day we could all manage it. The exact time of year matters less than the event itself. Cool water, melting sunscreen, the short rush of class 1 rapids, a stop at the “beach” for a float and some sugared sour candy. The tune of “hooked on a feeling” fading in and out as it drifts nearer and then further over the water from a glitchy waterproof speaker tossed in a dry bag. Somehow this paddle became part of our identify, a family tradition that is as sacred as a holiday.

the Patriarch and Matriarch
Kayaking highlight video, 2022
Carol Anne and Kendall ❤️
Olivia’s first year on the River
Twinkies!
We gave a cigar to the guy who took our photo.

Thinking questions: What traditions are worth intentionally cultivating? How do shared events shape our family identity?

Happy summer, friends! ☀️